In the past, companies were forced to pay for waste oil disposal in almost every scenario. Today, times have changed and many people see a great value in waste oil and companies are now ‘getting paid’ for their used oil. The reason Lanair is still in business today is because the ‘value’ of used oil can increase 3-4 times when burned in a Lanair waste oil fired heater.

Lets say you get paid 1 dollar per gallon for waste oil.

When burned inside a waste oil heater, that value goes up to whatever the value of regular ‘fuel-oil’ would be. The BTU ratio of burning “fuel-oil” compared to “waste-oil” is 1:1, so you are still getting the ‘full value’ of that oil when you burn it.

Lets look at that again, if you were to “pay” for 500 gallons of fuel-oil at 4 dollars per gallon, that would be roughly 2000 dollars. If you already generate 500 gallons of waste-oil, its ‘worth’ 2000 dollars to you if you burn it. However, if you choose to simply sell the used oil, it will only be worth 500 dollars, and you’ll still be paying for a heating solution on top of that.

It’s also worth noting that the options to sell or burn are not entirely mutually exclusive. For example, if you produced 500 gallons of waste oil, but only burned 400 during the cold season, you could still opt to sell the remaining 100 gallons of waste oil.

Check out our “waste oil value” calculator to get an idea how quickly this can add up!

Generally, No. The paint booth exhaust can suck chimney gases back into the heater and building.

Codes require them to be either 8 feet in the air or in a furnace room with a two hour fire rating. If gasoline is present in building, the 8 foot rule ensures gas vapors will not be a problem.

No, provided they are installed properly, adjusted properly, and only authorized fuels are burned, there should be no smoke or noticeable change in odor.

No, its illegal to burn hazardous waste.

A small amount of anti-freeze that leaks into the engine block is ‘okay’, but mixing it into waste oil purposefully however is a definite No!

We recommend a licensed heating contractor, they will do it right the first time, efficiently, and ensure you do not have ‘install’ based problems.

However, our heaters are well known as a ‘DIY’ solution, many of our customers choose to install it themselves following the instructions in the manual. Even if you install it yourself, please ensure you have an HVAC contractor verify installation and do not deviate from the owner’s manual or codes!

No, all codes prohibit burning waste oil in a house.

Used oil & Waste Oil Fired Heaters can only be used in a building classified as ‘commercial’ or ‘industrial’ – you should also be able to produce enough Used / Waste Oil to make it worth your investment.

Most customers have their own compressor already installed, so we do not include the compressor ‘on-board’ to keep the price of the unit low. Customer’s are very rarely interested in buying something they already have.

We’ve been around for over 37 years, running Lean, Efficient, Year-Round Manufacturing. We know the industry very well and strive to convert that knowledge into savings for the customer.

Because we manufacture and sell our products Direct, we can ‘cut out the middle man’ and pass savings directly on to you.

Aside from the Heater and Tank alone, for a complete setup you will need to a ‘Class A’ Chimney, barometric damper, and capped clean-out tee. All of these are available from Lanair and featured in some of our value packages. Some people have these installed already, so we offer the Heater and Tank on their own, but in most cases people require ‘everything’ for a fresh install. To get the majority of your needs met in one place, we’d highly recommend a value package, we introduced them specifically to make it easier on the customer.

You will also need:
* A primary air regulator.
* A secondary source of air 2 CFM 60 PSI ( reduced at unit ).
* Electrical dedicated circuit ( this will be a hard-wired install ).

* Refer to your owner’s manual and installation diagrams:
‘Class A’ chimney is rated for 1900 degrees F. The barometric damper equalizes pressure between the inside of the building & exhaust gases allowing you to adjust exhaust draft for proper flame. This insures exhaust gases exit the chimney properly.